Dry embossing, sometimes referred to as relief or paper embossing, is the technique of creating textured or raised patterns on various types of paper or card stock. One of the key items used is an embossing folder, which is typically a pattern type of template made of plastic or metal containing a raised or relief pattern. Embossing folders come in a variety of designs from basic geometric shapes to intricate lacework. The other essential item is an embossing machine (see below), which applies pressure to the folder containing your paper or cardstock as it is moved through the machine. The unique pattern on the folder transfers onto the paper, leaving a raised design with texture and depth.

Dry Embossing vs. Heat Embossing

Since people often confuse them, let’s look at some basic differences between dry and heat embossing. First of all, neither technique is ‘better’ than the other. They are just different methods that are available and selection depends on the project at hand. As already noted, dry embossing utilizes pressure onto a template to create 3D textures on paper and heavyweight cardstock. It actually raises the fibers of the card to create a pattern you can feel. See the result below:

Heat embossing is a little more rustic in look and feel. Stationary, handmade cards, junk journals, tags, and scrapbooking projects can be beautifully enhanced. The process involves the use of rubber stamp ink, embossing powder, and heat to create vibrant, glossy colors. The powder melts causing the pattern to rise above the surface. Heat embossing requires the use of heavyweight cardstock; with a smooth, matte finish (recommended}. Thin paper tends to warp or burn and highly textured paper does not allow for a clean, concise stamped image. See scraps of embossed papers below.

We will not be doing the Heat Embossing Powder technique today. However, we have a Distress Ink Technique tutorial HERE and Embossing Powder Techniques HERE. The gist of heat embossing is to rubber stamp an image or word, sprinkle embossing powder over the image and apply heat with a heat gun to melt the powder. The powder will melt and transform into raised embossing on the card.

Dry embossing is ideal and fun for all age groups to enjoy since it is relatively easy and safe to do. Heat embossing involves the use of a heat gun blowing high heat so it is definitely not recommended for use by children.

Cardstock

Heavyweight cardstock (80 lb to 11o lb) is the preferred surface for dry embossing. The card weight should feel like a standard greeting card. The surface should be smooth and matte. The glossy card tends to crack and tear when embossed. I love the index weight card made by Neenah Paper, but you can try others to find your favorite. TIP: An easy trick is to use blank Index Cards. They are easy to find, fairly inexpensive, and fit nicely into the folders. Of course you can trim larger pieces to fit your design. You can also use pre-made cards. TIP: If your cardstock tends to crack, place a sheet of waxed paper between the cardstock and the folder.

Embossing Machines

There are a wide variety of manual and electric machines in a range of sizes available today. It can get a bit overwhelming with so many choices available. I have three manual machines: Sizzix® Big Shot, CuddleBug®, and Sidekick®. I do not own an electronic one as yet. Other machines out there are Gemini, Spellbinders, and Cricut, to name a few. There are also industrial strength machines by Sizzix and Bira. This is not a review or endorsement of any machine(s). I wrote a tutorial called What is a Sizzix Big Shot Machine HERE that you might want to check out for more info on the machine.

Embossing Folders

An embossing folder is made of a heavy plastic which has a pattern or design moulded into it. It  has two connected sides and folds in half. It has a positive side where the pattern is raised and a negative side where the design is recessed. The folders come in a few different sizes and styles. There are thin folders, medium folders, thick textured folders, and thicker 3D folders. The 2D folders have been around for years and are generally referred to as the Standard Embossing Folder. The 3D embossing folders are a newer invention and offer more dimension with multiple levels of embossing. 3D embossing folders generally cost more than the standard ones.

Most folders are designed to fit a standard size machine. The standard sizes are: 4″x 6″ and 5″x 7.″ I have seen a few other sizes: 1” border designs, 3”x 4” designed for Artist Trading Cards, and a few larger – 6-1/2″ x 4-1/2″,  8” x 8”, and 8-1/2” x 11”designs. My embossing machine is 6″ wide. I can use the majority of folders as long as one of the dimensions is under 6.″ Your only limitation is the size of your machine. Any size folder that fits the width of your embossing machine is fine. Use your own judgement for positioning.

Please experiement with several different folders. You may like a design in 2D and not like the 3D version. I know some crafters who don’t like the 3D look at all and others who will only use 3D. It is a preference as most artistic methods are. But the fun part (at least for me) is the playful experimenting.

How to Emboss Cardstock with an Embossing Folder Tutorial

I will be using my trusty Sizzix® Big Shot for the tutorial along with a variety of embossing folders. Some of the designs I am using might be out of stock, but you should be able to find comparable designs.

Materials

Die Cutting Machine (Cuttlebug, Big Shot, Sizzix, etc.)
Smooth Heavyweight Cardstock (80 lb to 11o lb)
Spray Bottle with water

1. Set your machine on a flat surface that does not move. You will be using a lot of pressure to perform this technique.
2. Place the cardstock into the embossing folder as you desire. I generally use cardstock cut smaller than my folder. Check that the card is placed where you will get the design coverage you want.
   
   TIP: I often spritz one side of the cardstock to soften the fibers. It should not be dripping wet, just damp. I let the card rest for a minute before placing it in the folder. This helps the fibers soften and creates a crisper, more defined image. I will share examples at the end of this tutorial.
   
3. Before you emboss, you must create a “sandwich” with the plates that come with your machine. Your specific machine will be different than mine, requiring a unique sandwich. Below you see the layers of my sandwich for this folder and this machine. Remember that every pass through will be different.
   TIP: Be sure to check the manual for your embossing machine to see how to compose your sandwich. See the guide for layering for my machine. Remember 2D folders have different sandwich layers than 3D. This will be your most challenging step. You might need to play with your layers to get it just right. TIP: There is a rubberized plate now especially made for embossing. It is the charcoal layer below. It takes a little practice to master, but it creates a crisp outcome.
   
4. Place the sandwich with the folder hinge-first into the rollers. TIP: I often use 2 or 3 extra scrap pieces of card stock on top of the sandwich. It helps press the pattern.
   
5. Begin cranking the sandwich through the machine. If possible I make the folder a little crooked on the platform as seen below. It is a tip that has served me well. TIP: If it is manual, it should glide through without hurting your cranking hand. If it is resisting, you may need to reconfigure your sandwich. Run the folder through the machine forward and then backward.
   
6. Remove the card from the folder and fall in love with the design.
7. Below you can see an example of cardstock that was run through the machine dry then run through wet. The wet cardstock is on top of the dry to the right. Notice the crispness of the wet card image and the fuzziness of the dry card image to the left below. See how the dotted design has cracked into the cardstock on the dry (left) side.
   
8. OOPS. The card moved inside the folder while cranking. It caused double lines (not crisp) and cracking.
   

Don’t forget the other side!

You have a raised side and a recessed side with dry embossing. I always call it the debossed side (see examples below). It is just as fascinating as the raised side. I am exploring the recessed side for an elegant letterpress look at the moment.

Optional Techniques to Try on Embossed Card Stock

1. 1. Use Distress ink to rub over the embossing to accentuate the design as shown above.
   2. Try inking the folder before running it through the machine.
   3. Do partial embossing by inserting the card stock only part way into a folder. You can emboss the empty side or leave an intentional space for sentiments or focal images.
   4. Emboss a two-toned or white-core card stock. Sand the raised image to reveal the white  underneath for bold contrast.

Hope you enjoyed learning How to Emboss Cardstock with an Embossing Folder. I can’t wait to hear your thoughts on your creations! When I am not creating for TGF, I also create Photoshop Elements tutorials and craft project videos over on The Graphics Fairy Premium Membership site. You can find even more of my books, art, and whimsical shenanigans on my website – The Bookery.

May joy be with you all,

Rebecca